For Spring, they imagined their girl on some sort of trip. Whether through the desert or on the beach wasn't clear, but one side of each model's outfit and half of her hairdo were plastered in sand, as if, perhaps, she fell asleep there, or rolled around with a lover. Either way, this was an evocative show. A long jersey wrap dress barely held in place by a grosgrain ribbon had a soigné glamour; same goes for other dresses that were clingy in back and draped asymmetrically from squares of fabric in front. Vandevorst and Arickx have a good sense of their own strengths
The Céline woman became more intriguing, though, in her embrace of a certain ragga style in the elongated string vest looks.The color palette had that late-eighties feel of something primary, urgent, graphic. Giant strokes and squiggles dominated in tailored T-shirt shapes over striped sunray pleats. At first, the Céline woman was like a Tony Viramontes illustration sprung to life. But what gave the clothes a real third dimension was the fabric experimentation; here, woven jacquards and knits dominated over prints and were beautifully done
Cotton crepe pantsuits and a coat were garment-printed to look as if a paint roller had been taken to the fabric, with only the seams and edges untouched—they were more elegant than that description sounds.The three-quarter-length hems of dresses, skirts, and cropped culottes might've looked droopy. But the designers mostly avoided those pitfalls. Meanwhile, pleats, which they began exploring in their Resort collection, got the couture treatment, bonded with razor-thin strips of silver and bronze foil. Proenza Schouler's rank among the best.
Doma started off with all-white looks in graphic lines. A cotton dress sliced diagonally down the front revealed the all-in-one underneath, while a horizontal vent on the back of a crisp sleeveless jacket exposed a flash of skin. Khaki dresses, meanwhile, were built from the elements of trenchcoats. Business as usual for Doma. But then came the polka dots. Printing them would've proved too heavy-handed, so instead he laser-cut them, adding a sense of feminine froth to everything from boxy linen T-shirts to skirts whipped up in silk plissé.
Doma done spring amazing, like no one can change the game like he.